VILLAGESChurch of Saint John / Church of Saint Nicholas KRIONERI When travelling to and from Ancient Phigaleia and the sea, you will pass a road to the north in the hamlet of Trianta just to the east of Nea Figalia. This leads to Krioneri ('cold water'), a small village in an isolated mountain valley. En route you will pass the ruins of an alluring Byzantine Church. The talk is that villages like Krioneri are dying as their populations decline: the only real occupation for young men (and young dogs) is shepherding sheep. It is hard, especially in winter, but the village lives in hope and has built a new community hall. Oh, and the caféneon is still open, at least during the summer.